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GET HEALTHY HAIR NOW – WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT CHEMICAL RELAXERS

Hair breakage, hair thinning, lack of hair growth, scalp irritation, scalp damage and hair loss – These are just some of the complaints from many who experience problems due to the misuse of chemical hair relaxers. In fact, the FDA lists hair straighteners and hair dyes among its top consumer complaint areas. Yet, in so many stores around the country, chemicals are available for everyone to use, without much instruction, a powerful process which transforms the basic chemical makeup of the hair strand.  Before beginning any hair treatment, especially one that introduces chemicals to your hair, you owe it to yourself to be well informed. Armed with a better understanding of this process, you will be able to make good decisions with regard to hair and scalp care.

If you have naturally tightly curled hair you have the option of styling it using products specifically designed for your hair type as it is, or the option to straighten the hair which opens up further hair styles to be available to you. However, chemically straightening the hair should be carefully thought out and thoroughly studied.  We have compiled essential information on chemical hair relaxers and urge you to read the following carefully and, if not for yourself, share it with a friend.

His name was Garrett Augustus Morgan and he was born the seventh of eleven children of former slaves. He is best known for his invention of the automatic traffic signal and gas mask. But it was around 1910 that he stumbled upon what would become his contribution to the hair care products industry and what would pave the way for several other entrepreneurs and manufacturers over the next hundred years.

While working in a sewing machine repair shop attempting to invent a new lubricating liquid for the machine needle, it is widely believed that Morgan wiped his hands on a wool cloth, returned the next day, found the woolly texture of the cloth had “smoothed out”, and set out to find how the liquid chemical had changed the texture as it had. He experimented on an Airedale dog, known for their curly textured hair, and the effect was successfully duplicated.

Morgan then tried his lubricating liquid invention on himself, called it a “hair refining cream”, and thus patented the first chemical hair straightener.  He founded a personal grooming products company which included hair dying ointments, curved-tooth pressing combs, shampoo, hair pressing gloss, and the one that started it all: the “G.A. Morgan’s Hair Refiner Cream” (advertised to “Positively Straighten Hair in 15 Minutes”).

How can chemicals “relax”, or straighten hair? Well first of all, as assumed, the chemical would need to be potent enough to do so. Both lye and “no lye” relaxers are very strong chemicals that work in the same manner by changing the basic structure of the hair shaft. The chemical penetrates the cortex or cortical layer and loosens the natural curl pattern. This inner layer of the hair shaft is not only what gives curly hair its shape but provides strength and elasticity. Once this process is performed it is irreversible.

This process which produces the desired effect of “straighter” hair at the same time leaves hair weak and extremely susceptible to breaking and further damage. One must keep in mind that relaxers do not help the hair, but actually strip it. So by applying chemicals to the hair, even if it is to achieve a desired effect, is never really to the benefit of your hair health.  Due to this, it is first strongly recommended that it be applied only under the direction of a hair care professional with a record of success with healthy hair care and chemical straightening, and that the client regularly obtains conditioning treatments before and after the process.

Possessing a healthy scalp beforehand decreases the possibility of problems occurring. Relaxers should never be applied to already damaged hair, or on someone who has had scalp damage. Age should also be considered. Although your young children may want to have the hairstyles they see on adults or other young people, parents should seriously consider applying such strong chemicals to young hair and the potential damage that could last a lifetime if misused; most times it is not necessary to apply any chemical product to young hair.

“Over processing”, the excessive use of relaxers on the hair or applying the chemical to already processed or relaxed hair, is the most typical misuse of these chemicals. Once the initial relaxer is applied to “virgin hair” (or a “virgin relaxer” is performed), “touch-ups” (or chemical applied thereafter) should only be applied to new growth between 6-8 week periods (or more). This however, depends on the rate of hair growth and condition of the hair as advised by your hair care professional. (Some say that even six weeks is too soon to reapply relaxer to new growth). And it is standard to wait at least 2-4 weeks before applying hair color chemical (or dye) to recently relaxed hair, if applied at all. We remind readers that the more chemicals applied to hair the more possibility of damage may be experienced.

 We are well aware that chemical straightening is an option that many people will choose regardless of the education they receive on the dangers and cautions in doing so.  So we ask that if you are going to make the choice to chemically relax your hair that you take ever precaution necessary.  Seek the service of a reputable hair care professional who is concerned with the overall HEALTH of the hair.  A hair consultation should be suggested during which the hair may be felt to determine its elasticity and strength. Your scalp should also be inspected. And any problems you currently are experiencing with your hair or scalp should be disclosed to the stylist at this time. The stylist may also ask you pertinent questions regarding your current hair regimen and products you typically use. Your stylist may even recommend other methods to style your hair besides chemically straightening it. Even after you’ve personally done your research the stylist may strongly recommend that relaxing your hair ought not be done or that it is not needed. Their recommendation should also be carefully considered.

If newly chemically straightened hair is not given special treatment and care it can become brittle, dry, damaged and break. Relaxed hair will tend to be drier and break easily. When combing it may be best to use a large tooth comb and start from the tips of the hair up to the roots. Regular deep conditioning is a must. Remember once you’ve made the decision to chemically straighten the hair you should also make a decision to commit to regular quality conditioning treatments to maintain not only the look you want, but the healthy hair we all desire.

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Hair has an overwhelming importance in many cultures. It is seen as a crown of beauty, shaped to create beautiful things, and even adorned with jewels to highlight its magnificence. In Western cultures, hair styles, cuts, and care pervades fashion, style, and even health magazines, all seeking to pump a new product or an adventurous celebrity hair cut. Yet, despite our endless search for the ultimate hair fitness or the perfect hairdo, men and women alike often find their hair in shambles, destroyed from gels, mousses, sprays, heat styling, and bad cuts from over zealous stylists. Before you read another Allure’s best article, borage yourself with new drugstore products, or quote the newest celebrity stylist hair tip, here are some myths and truths about hair and hair care.

As a trichologist and former cosmetic chemist, I have heard and, unfortunately, seen some of the hair and scalp horror stories. While I champion personal grooming and loving and discovering your hair, brilliant hair care should not come at a risk to your hair or scalp health. Here are some things that you should be know.

Truth # 1 Your Hair is Dead, But Your Scalp and the Hair Follicles that Push From the Scalp are ALIVE

Secretly, the most top reputed cosmetic companies will tell you that there is nothing you can do to remedy your hair woes because in reality the hair is dead. And, frankly, this is true if you are using about 98% of the products on the synthetic or non-prescriptive products on the market. Generally, all products are virtually the same, so much that they are created by the same companies and masked under different brands. For example, Estee Lauder is Aveda, Origins and Bumble & Bumble. Loreal is made by the same company as Matrix, Mizani, The Body Shop, Keratese, Garnier, Soft Sheen Carson, Redken, Lancome and Nexxus. This list goes on forever and generally all the products contain the same chemically derived ingredients in a different concentrations. The only difference is the packaging, the fragrance, the chemical dye of the product, or the list of extracts dashed inside. Because many consumers buy frequently off of packaging, they are often duped and run into buying the same products under different names over and over. This causes you to feel that there is nothing that you can do to help your hair, and the message is only hammered home when someone tells you that your hair is dead, your hair cannot repair itself, your hair cannot grow.

But, what you must remember is that scalp health and the providing of nutrients to the scalp is critical for healthy tresses. The hair at the scalp root is quite alive. Have you ever pulled a hair from your scalp? It hurts quite a bit because that is hair is hooked to the follicle and is receiving nourishment from the follicle, which is receiving its nourishing from what is applied to the scalp and what you give the body internally. However, if you feed you hair what it needs to thrive, as it sprouts, its health will show. So what can you do?

TIP# 1 Eat for your hair and overall body scalp.

I have discovered that patients who are often plagued repeatedly with dry scalp and scalp fungus have anti-inflammatory difficulties and dry skin overall. Introduce moisturizing and anti-inflammatory supplements into your diet, such as Evening Primrose Oil, Flax Seed Oil, Biotin, Olive Oil, Sea Buckthorn Oil, Pantothenic Acid, and Green Tea. I have truly seen tremendous results in patients’ hair and scalp shine, texture, health, and moisture within 4 weeks of changing their diet or adding oils rich in essential fatty acids to their daily supplement cocktail. To further increase the health of the hair and scalp, apply oil rich products that are water based to your scalp. Yes, oils have gotten a harsh wrap in hair care, but in many cultures, especially those with luxurious hair, oils are a necessary requirement. As an Indian myself, Amla, Brahmi, Coconut, Neem, and many other oils are in daily application to my hair to maintain its beauty. I personally love Beauty 4 Ashes’ Mango Scalp Nourish Hair Cream and their Ayurvedic Scalp Food Cream. These creams are lightweight and very soothing to the scalp, especially if you are not comfortable mixing oils yourself and have trouble styling your hair after the application of the oil. A few of my patients have also documented increased hair fullness after increasing their intake of fruits, oils, and nuts and applying Beauty 4 Ashes’ Ayurvedic Scalp Food Cream, which can be found in the UK at mybeauty4ashes.com. These products have had quite a success rate in the States at discoverb4a.com and also in Canada at myb4a.com

Truth # 2 Your Hair Can Grow if You Do Not Cut It

I love the versatility of long hair, and many others do as well. But, there is also beauty in a wonderful cut. Yet, many of my patients come to me expressing deep sadness about their hair thickness or length. I often hear them stating that they desire longer hair, but their hair cannot grow and when it does, their stylist cuts it because it has some form of splitting ends or breakage. It often strikes me as absurd. In India, I went years without hair cuts. It was simply braided or just worn. Further, individuals who have dredlocks may cut their hair very infrequently, and may even burn the ends of the hair to create uniformity and neatness, yet their hair still increases length. I desire more than anything to dispel this lie. You hair can grow without frequents trims to it. While it may grow uneven or even have some splitting, this is common because each hair that sprouts from the hair follicle is on its own timeline. Since some sprouted yesterday and some today, of course they will be different lengths and may split. But, since the hair grows from the root, not the end, your hair can grow, even if you do not cut the end.

Tip #2: If you want your hair to see more length, do not cut your hair, instead nourish it gently to prevent as much damage as possible.

If you want your hair to grow, and you plan on not trimming it, understand that it may not look celebrity like—perfectly even and shaped. But, it still can have volume, shine, and health. During this time, make sure you moisturize the ends, using something as simple as Olive Oil, Coconut Oil, Beeswax, Lanolin Butter, or even natural hair cream. Natural works best for the hair. Because your hair is a part of you, and you work best on natural nutrients, such as vitamins, proteins, oils, nuts, and the like, it is best to give your hair what you would give your body. Make sure you gently comb your hair during this time as well. This will prevent breakage. And, as mentioned above, do not neglect your scalp.

Truth # 3: Chemicals can hurt the hair

Natural works best for the hair. Because your hair is a part of you, and you work best on natural nutrients, such as vitamins, proteins, oils, nuts, and the like, it is best to give your hair what you would give your body. Products that contain chemicals can create amazing momentary effects. But, they are only hair bandages that use silicones, polymers, plasticizers, straighteners, softening agents, and chlorides to alter the feel and look of your hair for a very temporary period. For this sweet moment of gratification, you often live with years of hair damage or have to endure chemicals that canb negatively impact your health. A constant scalp condition I encountered due to chemicals is purple and red bumps on the scalp from chemical hair dyes. I also often see thick patches of the scalp from the repeated use of shampoos containing SLS, Behetrimonium Chloride, and ALS. Despite the hoorah about chemicals not being bad, many of the chemicals used in hair care products are derived from petroleum or alcohol. Petroleum is toxic and alcohol is very drying and damaging.

Tip #3 Buy Natural, Change Your Hair

Salon quality and great products can be found with all natural products. Of course, be cognizant of semi natural products and those that use parentheses to indicate something is derived from a natural ingredient. 100% natural products are out there. And, if anyone tries to discourage you, and they will (I had a patient tell my that Paula someone wrote about how herbs, fruits, and oils are awful for your hair —how absurd the things we will believe), just ignore them. As a trichologist, I am personally privy to the reality that over 25% of pharmaceutical products are made of plant compounds. As doctors, we search from cures to the hair, skin, and body from rain forests and then apply for the patent, label it as a drug, and rename the plant so that our consumers are not privy to the plant origins. Trust me, your hair will behave better by using natural products. Aubrey Organics and Beauty 4 Ashes make excellent 100% natural products. If you have specific hair care needs, Beauty 4 Ashes has more variety in its product selection and makes products that are suitable for all hair types.

If you’re wondering why you’re beginning to lose your full head of hair at such a young age, the answer may lie in your genes. Thinning hair is more a result of your genetic makeup than any other reasons, including such wild presumptions as wearing hats too much, excessive washing, and other misguided myths. Hair thinning is usually a result of alopecia, a condition which is basically genetic in nature, and is clinically-known as Androgenetic Alopecia. Chances are, your scalp’s fate has been predetermined in the womb. The hair follicles are genetically programmed much like all of your other body parts; included in this program is the time and extent of the baldness which you will incur in your entire lifetime. Hair thinning occurs when specific hormones affect those hair follicles which carry an innate susceptibility to their effects. The human body can manufacture male hormones; this function disregards gender factors, and is applicable to women as well. The three hormones which are usually produced are dihydrotestosterone (DHT), testosterone, and testosterone. On the other hand, the hair follicles and skin pores are abundant in an enzyme known as 5-alpha-reductase; this substance can convert testosterone into dihydrotestosterone (DHT) through the help of the bloodstream. An overabundance of this single hormone, DHT, is known as the primary cause of male-pattern baldness. Some people have an inborn vulnerability for baldness at the top of their heads. During maturity or middle ages, this area is specifically targeted by DHT by binding with the receptors of the susceptible follicles, causing the latter to eventually weaken. Now the normal growth cycle of a hair follicle is three to eight years; at the end of this process, the shaft and strand is separated from the hair follicle, in place of a new strand. But with hair thinning, the growth cycles gets progressively shorter in time, and the hair strand which comes out of the follicle becomes ever thinner in volume and thickness. This process is known as miniaturization. This cycle successively takes on a gradual severity, and will eventually lead to baldness in most of the people who experience it. There are even cases wherein the baldness is so extensive that every treatment alternative is practically ineffective in addressing or reversing the hair loss. However, some cases are temporary, and may be a result of a combination of various factors which include genetic predisposition. The best way to ascertain your actual condition is to consult a doctor for proper diagnosis and treatment recommendations. The treatment for hair loss comes in a wide variety of topical applications, medications, and even surgery procedures. The most promising alternative thus far is the drug finasteride; it inhibits the conversion of testosterone into DHT, and encourages the hair follicle to bring out new strands in place of old ones. Some of the more drastic procedures involve hair transplants and scalp reduction; these either transplant hair strands on the follicles (one strand at a time), or the scalp itself is ‘stretched’ in an attempt to minimize the extent of the baldness. Consult with your doctor first if you are considering on any of these possible treatment options; your doctor is the best person to decide on which alternative will be the best for you.